Sunday, July 22, 2012

Changes

Well, I've been afraid of changing 
'Cause I've built my life around you 
But time makes you bolder 
Children get older 
I'm getting older too 



First, I apologize at not updating. I hoped to continue writing after my travels ended but fast-paced life in the U.S. got the best of me. Many changes (some for the better, others for worse) have happened in my life since I have returned from abroad. 


Throughout these past two months being back home, I have started a new job as the director of sumer camp for special needs kids, officially moved into the house that I will be living in for the next year,  struggled with the end of a two year relationship and dealt with the news of my dog passing in February whilst trying to reflect on my experiences abroad. I am hoping that starting to write in the road less traveled will help me gain the perspective of my experiences that I think was lost a bit when I came back to the states. 


On another note, even though I have dealt with some struggles, I have had a wonderful summer thus far and am so excited to be taking life by the horns. I am graduating in nine months and the world will be at my fingertips. If there is one thing that Madagascar has taught me that I  am capable of pretty much anything. If I put my heart and soul into a goal then I will acheive. I am in the process of applying to grad schools and studying for the GREs and could not be any more eager and excited for my future. 


Change is scary. But I feel like change has to happen in order for us to grow as people. My life has changed and is still changing. I am not content just sitting still. My wander lust will guide me through the next few years of my life. 


On another note, what have I been up to for these past two months where I have been off the blogging grid? Here is a timeline in photos: 



 Good Evening Burlington. Oh how I had missed you-

 Hannah and Lexi came to visit the first weekend I got back :-)

 Random trips to Montreal to get my Cafe au Lait fix :-)


Hikes in the Adirondacks 

Shenanigans with the new roomies

Sibling Love


Oh the places she will go... Hannah is off to Bates next year!

Some good looking kids. And of course my graduated little sis!

The grandparents!

My sweet father and I

Well that's it for now... I promise I will be better at updating but alas, I have to go study for the GREs now.. So I don't know how long that promise will last. 


Oh and PS: Everyone in Madagascar: I am missing you like crazy!!!!! Much love! xoxox


Tuesday, May 15, 2012

What a long strange trip it's been...

I feel like I have started all of my latest blog posts with “I am so sorry I am horrible at updating…” Well, I’ll save my apologies this time because I have 8 hours to kill in the Johannesburg airport before I catch my 16-hour flight to the big apple so naturally; I am killing that time by showing off how great my last week has been.

So, for those of you that do not know, I have been in paradise Mauritius for the past week utilizing my new SCUBA license to explore the third largest reef in the world. Needless to say it has been pretty amazing. Things got a bit lonely because I was by myself, but it was a great place to go after such a life changing experience in Madagascar, where I could just relax and reflect upon my past four months abroad.

Before I go into greater detail about my Mauritian adventures let me give you a short synopsis about Mauritius first. Mauritius is an independent island nation that lies east of Madagascar and its neighboring island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean (just to give you a reference it was about a two hour flight to get there from Tana).  The island has been under the influence of both the British and the French so you will see evidence of both influences. For example, like the Brits, Mauritians drive on the left side of the road- which obviously makes things a little bit difficult for an American crossing the street… I had one close call but otherwise ended up unscathed. The official language of Mauritius is English but you will find that most people are actually more comfortable speaking French for their local Creole is French-based.

In regards to the language I got lots praise for my ability to speak French as an American. People were generally impressed and I am so happy that my French improved over these past months. In fact, as I am sitting in the Johannesburg airport right now, I have to bite my tongue when I speak for my first instinct is to speak French to people. This is going to be a tough habit to break when I get back to the states.

I was very much surprised by all the development in Mauritius. It is a major tourist destination for Europeans and Australians and shows it through all of the luxury hotels and tour operators on the island. For my first five nights I lived in a cheap rental apartment in the tourist center of Grand Baie that is home to many shops and hotels in addition to a giant supermarket (picture Wal-Mart supercenter on steroids except with the organization and cleanliness of a target) attached to a mall with a casino and bumper cars. Needless to say, when I discovered this first night I pretty much had an anxiety attack walking around the place not having been in a building so big, new and clean for a very long time.

Unfortunately not all of Mauritius is like this. Like many tourist destinations there are the tourist spots and the local spots. It was striking to drive around the island and see some of the economic differences. Many of the houses were reminiscent of some homes I had seen throughout my travels in Madagascar- small and dirty with scrap metal roofs. It makes it a bit harder to really enjoy yourself in a place like this when you see the standard in which some of the locals live.
I am not normally one to stick to the tourist traps (this blog is called the road less traveled duh!). So after a horrible experience with lamb my first night at a restaurant near my hotel I decided to bag the tourist restaurants altogether and stick with the more delicious and less expensive street food. And let me tell you…. The roti and samosas were some of the best I ever had. I got quite a few weird looks from the local men when I was standing in line with them getting my curry at 8:30 am but hey, it makes for a unique experience!

Speaking of unique experiences… I had an incredible time diving! I dove with a dive operator which is basically a shop where you can rent things and sign up for organized dives with other people and instructors. Everyone there was super nice and I ended up being able to do six dives in all. I improved a lot, met a lot of cool people and most importantly saw so many cool SEA CREATURES! I unfortunately do not have access to an underwater camera so I do not have pics but I did see a ton of huge moray eels, three giant rays and octopus in addition to a ton of cool fish. It was the coolest thing- I literally felt like I was in a fish tank at times, the visibility was so good. The dive sites were all really great- right on the reef and I even got to go down to 80 feet (which I am not even certified to do- but the instructor said they would make an exception for me)

I spent the remainder of my time when I was not diving, going on runs, walks, exploring, going to the many beaches surrounding me or resting for my next dive! Here are some of the picture highlights of the trip! 


The next two photos were taken right across the street from the dive shop-


The waterfront of  Port Louis (the capital city)- I managed to figure out the public transport and spent an afternoon exploring the city :-)

I came across some strange but beautiful gardens in the financial district of Port Louis...

This is about a two minute walk from my residence in Grand Baie

Anxiety provoking super-market slash mall slash casino slash food court...

DIVE SHOP!


En route to Maheboug (where the airport is located) it is on the opposite end of the island so the very nice owner of my hotel picked me up at the airport and then brought me back to Mahebourg to stay for my last night. Beautiful views-




Views from my Mahebourg hotel... Need I say more?



I am so thankful to have been able to have this experience. Not many people are able to say they have been to Mauritius not to mention Madagascar. Another update will be coming soon about some more thoughts on my leaving Madagascar. There really is not a second that goes by since I have left where I do not think about my experiences there and how wonderful and unique they were. But for now, I am going to concentrate on staying sane for the remainder of my layover here in JNB and avoiding any more marriage proposals from security guys (I thought that was going to end in Madagascar and Mauritius but I guess I was wrong….) Also- wish me luck in my miserable 16 hour flight to the States. I cannot wait to be back in the land of the free and the home of the brave!!!! 


Thursday, May 10, 2012

Fianakaviana

It's over. The study abroad experience that I have been waiting for my whole high school and college careers is over. Although it is physically over, my memories will be forever with me. I also know that my experiences and contacts I have made in Madagascar have made such an impact on me that I know I will return to the island some day. 


What I am missing the most right now is the relationships I have forged throughout my time there. Most of all, through my homestays with the families that opened their doors up to me and made me a part of their "Fianakaviana" the Malagasy word for family. 


Here is a look through three and a half months of family fun...

















I am going to finish this post off with an excerpt from a journal entry I wrote on the plane to Mauritius-


Probably one of the most meaningful experiences in Madagascar were my experience with my homestay in Tana. I miss everyone so much right now. They took it upon themselves to make sure that I had everything I needed. They would buy me my favorite fruits, cook my favorite foods and even would buy me a celebratory seltzer each time I returned for an excursion. I spent a total of five weeks with this family. It was broken up throughout the course of the semester with excursions and ISP in between but, each time I left I would think about how lucky I was to have such love from these individuals. They treated me as I was one of their own- and that was so meaningful to me considering the first few weeks were rough in terms of homesickness and illness. When I got sick they made sure I had everything I needed and were there every step of the way as I was running to the toilet. 


My family made a point of showing me all around the city so I could get a look at Tana first through a tourists eyes, by going to the zoo and the park Gasikara and later, through a Malagasy's eyes, taking the taxi be's until I was comfortable navigating the overwhelming city that is Tana.


What is most important is the connection I shared with them. As you can see by these above pictures, we really were just goofballs together and each moment with them involved joking and laughter. They are constantly looking out for each other and are nothing but supportive and helpful. This is part of the Malagasy culture which puts a large emphasis on family but it is also the nature of this family to be selfless. For example, at the end of my stay I asked my mother a question that had been plaguing me for ages "What do you do with the extra rice that we don't eat at meals?" She answered that they either eat it at the next meal and the rest of the leftovers she gives to a lady that lives close by- and by "live" I mean she lives on the street. My host mother gave our extra food away to a starving woman knocking on our door every day. 


I wish more people i this world were like this. 


SIT gives the families a stipend for having students live with them. The last week of my ISP I lived with them so I was responsible for paying them. 


They gave me the money back at the end of my stay. 


These people, Bakoly, Olivia, Ainé and Joé have done so much for me throughout these past three and a half months. I cannot thank them enough for making my experience in Madagascar something I will never forget as long as I live. I am so thankful to have forged the relationships I have with these individuals. They truly are so special. 


I hope to return the favor to them one day. I know I will see them again. 






I love you all and I apologize for being horrible at updating and for having this be such a sappy post. For those of you that do not know, I am in the paradise island of Mauritus right now doing some SCUBA diving for a few days. More to come on that soon!



Sunday, April 22, 2012

of toilets, washing machines and sex tourism.

So I really apologize like 2309409834091 times for being horrible at updating. I hope you all liked my short and sweet update the other day. More will come in reference to that topic I promise. But right now, I have had this post drafted for a while and wanted to give you all a mini-lowdown of what I have been up to these past three weeks. 


So, a few weeks ago (you might have seen the pic on fb) I got to go to a beautiful beach with my host cousin and his friend. It was incredible. Totally like something out of another world- the water was as wonderful as it looks too. 


Throughout my time here in Diego I have been feeling a bit more homesick than usual. I think that this probably has to do with the fact that there are no other SIT students from my program here, and I really do not know anyone besides the few people that SIT has set me up with. They have all been wonderful, don't get me wrong, but my independent study project has had a huge emphasis on the "independent" part. I spent the first two weeks here living with a host family that used to host students when the program used to spend time in Diego. Now, due to the fact that I am super busy with my last week of research for my ISP I needed some time and space to get things done (I was living in one room with 8 people before so there was no privacy :-) haha). 

So, I have been living in a hotel for the past week, I leave on Tuesday to go back to Tana to live with my family there (I can't wait to see them again!). Though, it is really nice to have some space and be able to unpack and spread out, which I have not been able to do in months. Also- the hotel is in the center of town (a prime location) and has really fast wifi (I mean, fast for Madagascar that is...) Oh. and above ALL... I HAVE A SIT DOWN TOILET! Here in Diego it is rare to find sit down toilets in houses, although the toilet here is just not the same as back home. 


In fact, a few weeks ago when I was with my host cousin he asked me what I missed most about home. I answered in this order:
1. Washing Machines
2. Toilets
3. Family
4. My boyfriend 
Sorry family and Mike, but you are third and fourth to toilets and washing machines... As you can see from this picture above and below (as I said in one of my previous entries, the room I lived in was actually a converted classroom- I lived in a school so the bathroom resembled somewhat of a student bathroom...) Though in Madagascar you have to expect the unexpected and roll with the punches. It is important to understand that this family that I lived with was first of all, the sweetest, and second of all, could not afford anything more than this. Living eight to one room and having this as a bathroom/kitchen is what they know. In fact, I felt incredibly guilty one day when I called around noon to tell my host mother I would not be home for lunch because I had things to do around town. I ended up stopping at a sort of touristy restaurant to get a cheese pizza (I haven't had pizza in so long! Unfortunately the cheese here is not like the artisan brie and goat cheese  I am used to at home...) Anyways, I paid 8,000 Ar for a good-sized Margarita pizza of which I finished a little more than half. 8,000 Ar is the equivalent of $3.75- I do not know where you could get a decent pizza that size for that price in the US. Anyways, I ended up bringing the remains of the pizza back to my family to finish up for dinner. They asked how much it cost me and when I told them they were astounded. I asked why? Is that a lot??" YES! they replied. 

Just to put things in perspective... 


Anyway- Above is the porcelain gem that I had become so aquainted to. Maybe one of the main reasons why I miss US toilets so much is because of my poor life decision I made last week. 

Have you ever heard of corrosol? Well look it up- the english translation is soursop.
Well I love corrosol. It is scrumptious.
Well my family was making fresh squeezed corrosol juice the other day.
And if you know me, you know I could never pass up anything containing fruit especially fresh squeezed juice. Well, after they warned me it was made with non-potable drinking water, I decided to drink it anyways. Well that was dumb. Luckily I only had minor digestive problems for a few days and the cipro I bought at the pharmacy took care of it right away. I’m surprised cipro still works for me actually, this is the fourth times I’ve been on cipro in the past three months. I can’t tell if this should be an embarrassment or an accomplishment.



Anyways, enough of this sort of bathroom talk and onto another sort of bathroom talk. I will title this: finding live animals on the third floor bathroom chilling in the toilet. After a day or two this animal mysteriously disappeared and I later learned that the delicious chicken leg I ate the other day belonged to the animal chilling in the toilet. 



Onto the next topic. I will title this: Olivia teaches everyone how NOT to do laundry by hand. In my other homestays, we had laundry women that would come and do laundry for us. Here, in my homestay, and especially in my hotel room, we do not have people to come and do laundry for us. I now have so much respect for any woman in a developing country that has to wash clothes by hand. I have literally been having dreams about washing machines (seriously, no joke). 




So, as you can see, somehow my white tank top ended up with a mysterious bullseye stain. And what’s even more mysterious is the tye dye shit in the picture below that looks like it could have given the stain… was not in the same load! Blagh, my mind is baffled. Oh well, it was probably for the best- I came to realize that my camera brought out all of the disgusting sweat stains on the shirt. It was my shirt’s way of saying: please do not wear this in public anymore; you will be an embarrassment to yourself. 




Speaking of embarrassment and sweat stains on shirts (wow. I really apologize that this blog update seems like it has been written by a 5 year old obsessed with bathroom talk…) anyways- it is really really hot here. I literally get upper lip sweat and drippings just standing outside sometimes. So, as you can probably imagine, when everything is hot and sweaty, it really smells. And when Olivia the wash maid does not how to do laundry properly, things really start to smell (especially since I try to go running everyday). I guess the bottom line is that I am glad that none of you are around to smell me. 




Onto another topic: FOOD!!! So I have been living in a hotel on my own for about a week now. You would think that I had devised a system to be able to cook for myself or eat in a cheaper way besides going out to eat all the time. FALSE. Maybe it is the fact that I have so many options other than rice at my fingertips, or the fact that the fish here is mouth-wateringly fresh, or maybe the fact that all the restaurants here are incredible: I have basically been going out to eat all the time. Luckily because of the conversion rate, the food is not too expensive but, my pockets are emptying fairly quickly. Let me give you some of my favorite eats:
1.     The Rosticcera- An Italian ex-pat owns this place and you can get a delicious pasta plate for about 5 bucks. I’ve been here about three times and have had this delicious sausage and saffron pasta (saffron is harvested here so its real cheap) and I’ve had the carbonara (which is one of my favorite dishes of all time). Basically I was blown away by both of them. Totally and utterly delicious.
   2.    Tsara Be VaoVao- Not a cheap eat but I had the most incredible coconut fish curry here. This plate is a traditional one of the region I think because many many restaurants serve poison coco curry. My goal is to find the best poisson curry and I think that Tsara Be does it. (Although Hotel de Rade and La Cantine do pretty good and less expensive renditions).
3.     LE GRAND HOTEL- I come here every morning for breakfast. They have the best chocolate croissants (for about .75) that a little vazaha could ask for and needless to say, I am addicted. Every morning I come here and get my daily croissant and café au lait (the croque monsieurs are also pretty delsih- see below.). All of the ladies that work here know me and it has come to the point where they just know what I want without asking. Should I be embarrassed that I am such a vazaha? I mean, I could be eating gooj gooj or mofo gasy every morning but I mean… All right, I wont even try to defend myself. 



Though, if I do have to point fingers and blame I would blame my foodie boyfriend Mike. I used to make fun of him for being a foodie and now I am quickly following in his footsteps. It just makes me so happy when I am sitting down to a good and delicious meal. Especially when I am navigating this town alone and sometimes, as gluttonous as it may be, I really look forward to the pleasure of meal times.

Anyways, there was a little lighthearted update of the little things that have been going on in my life in Diego. In my last update, you got a little taste of what I have been up to in terms of research and I promise that I will provide you with another one of those soon. As for my schedule right now, I am planning on finishing up a few interviews with local officials tomorrow and then on Tuesday I fly back to Tana where I will be seeing my wonderful Malagasy family, and some wonderful friends and writing my (not so wonderful) 40-page paper. These three weeks in Diego have absolutely flown by. It is hard for me to believe that in a little more than three weeks I will be back in the United States! Just a little schedule for you all in case you are interested:

Tuesday 4/24: Fly back to Tana
4/24-5/1: Camp out at the program center and Café de la Gare to write my paper
5/2 & 5/3: ISP Presentatons
5/4-5/8: Program wrap-up and excursion to Andasibe National Park
5/9: End of program!!! Flying out to Mauritius in the afternoon
5/9-5/15: Scuba diving in Mauritius (an island in the Indian ocean close to Mada)
5/15-5/16: Starting the long journey back to the Etats Unis!

Crazy huh? Time flies when you are having fun. Although, I still have about three more weeks of fun to be had so I might as well enjoy it while I can! (Even though one of the those weeks will be spent locked up writing a paper).

Thanks for Reading! A post outlining some of my research will be next- when I have the time that is…. Haha

~Lots of Love~